New York, like most major cities of the world, boasts numerous 'secret' places to dine out well and at extremely reasonable prices. Of course, the writer who takes the bold step of revealing these supposedly well-hidden gems runs the risk of having their hip, bargain spot overrun, and in Manhattan's unfortunate case, by hordes of sweaty, backpack-laden tourists. End of secret, and most likely the end of the author's illicit affair with their favourite eatery.
In my neighbourhood is Pho32, referred to by its many regulars simply as Pho (you pronounce it
fah, apparently), a mighty fine little Vietnamese diner - sorry, the place seems too laid-back and frequented by cool people unlike me to be viewed as a big, grown-up restaurant - that nestles in the shadow of the Empire State Building, where hundreds of tourists gather daily before and after soaring up those 86 floors and beyond. Predictably and rather depressingly, most Empire State visitors, when they're not heading for the wild blue yonder, frequent the numerous big-name fast-food joints that occupy the couple of blocks beneath the world's favourite skyscraper.
Yet just around the corner, on the south side of W. 32nd St., resides Pho, where the exotic flavours of the rapidly expanding neighborhood now referred to as Koreatown begins - and out-of-towners should take note.
I'm as faithful as a Saigon swan when it comes to Pho's delicious chicken noodle pho. Yep, Pho's pho. It's how Pho32 got its name. See, pho is the popular Vietnamese ladling of soup, or more specifically, broth. Many readers will be familiar with another Vietnamese staple, shabu-shabu, also served here in several forms (chicken, tripe and beef, seafood, to name a few), but Pho's big, hot bowl of copious amounts of tasty chicken stirred into their consistently well-cooked rice noodles, and all nicely soaked in a clear and pretty spicy stock (there's a lot of that good stuff to spoon up at the end, too), does it for me every time. I have devoured these healthy servings of chicken pho regularly at lunchtimes on frigid February days here in the heart of Manhattan, while even in the current heatwave, which I swear is threatening to melt the concrete, I've been unable to resist the phenomenal pho (something to do with spices, remarkably, also being able to cool the body. That right, professor?).
You can overdo it with the spices, a variety with which Pho32 tempts you on a shelf along the side wall, and your pho could become transformed into a fiery gloop that threatens to rip out your throat, but, fear not, you can always cool off rapidly by taking your chop sticks to the serving of deliciously fresh, cold kimchi (spellings differ!), or seasoned cabbage, which is brushed lightly with a sweet, tangy sauce and presented on a dainty, square side plate. If you feel the need to mellow out your pho a little more, bean sprouts to sprinkle into your broth are also served. You want to take the temperature higher? There are the freshest and crispiest slices of jalapeno I've ever experienced ready to throw in. It
can be a delicate balancing act. Don't mess up.
An extremely tempting selection of appetisers, such as summer rolls and fried shrimp balls, and a few vegetarian dishes, including pan fried tofu, add plenty of colour to the Pho menu. The service from the young, genuinely pleasant and attentive staff is commendable as well. Expect to wait no more than five minutes for your great white bowl of happiness to arrive. Oh, and just walk in, no reservations are necessary(which is not a comment on Pho's popularity at all - the place is comfortably and comfortingly busy at most times). And this all costs nothing, or the next best thing. Those summer rolls are $3.95 and the pork shabu-shabu, for example, $13.95. The chicken noodle pho? This 'healthy and satisfying' meal in one costs me $7.95 a couple times a week.
I've turned on a few friends to Pho32 in recent times - but now my secret may really be out.
Pho32, 2 W. 32nd St., New York City. I think the place is 24-hour but check with them on 212 695-0888.
The best TV comedy since Britain's 'The Office' has to be 'Flight of the Conchords' on HBO, home of 'The Sopranos' and 'Curb Your Enthusiasm' - which is no mean feat, as you know New York (where FOTC is definitely the word on the street. Is the rest of the U.S. watching? Probably not).
Some pix from the New York Times. One woman killed, many injured. See the Times' full coverage at 
